Stops 39-41: New Zealand: Dunedin, Milford Sound, Queenstown

Greetings from Kiwi Land!!

We’ll start with a quick test. Which team just won America’s Cup? Any idea? Do you know what America’s Cup is?

We had no idea, but Kiwis love America’s Cup (it’s sailing/yachting for those not aware). Here’s a quote we saw in NY Times that sums it up: “The Cup is a niche attraction in the United States but it is a major event in New Zealand and has been drawing television audiences well over 1 million in a nation of 4.4 million”

At nearly every place we have stayed and at lots of restaurants people have been asking us about Team Oracle (which is Team USA). We had to read up to find out what was happening! The race has been the longest in history and has stretched out over 17 races. The intensity feels like an OSU vs. Michigan game spread out over 2 weeks! Team New Zealand orchestrated one of the biggest chokes in the history of sports by losing a best of 17 tournament when it was once up 8 points to 1!!!!

Trip Reshuffle!
Our trip to New Zealand started off with a substantial trip reshuffle. Apparently New Zealand had been pummeled with one of the worst storms of the last 25 years just before we arrived, and two Canadian tourists were killed when their van was swept off a mountain pass in a mudslide.

This resulted in the pass being shut down for +10 days. The scary part was that we were set to go over that same mountain pass after visiting glaciers on the west coast of the island. While disappointing to not see the glaciers, we were very grateful to not have been hurt or massively delayed with the road shut down.

In about 1.5 hours in the airport, we made a quick decision to cancel our glacier portion of the trip. With the help of Trip Advisor and several websites, we quickly changed our hotel, remapped out the next two days, and set off for the Southeast Coast of New Zealand. It turned out to be a fun change, and we had a great time!

Moeraki Boulders
Our first stop was to look at the Moeraki Boulders as we headed down the coast. These are unusual, large boulders that are spherical shaped. There are all over a beach and look quite strange!

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Dunedin Area
Our next stop was in Dunedin, a neat Scottish heritage town spread over hills and a valley that overlooks a harbor and peninsula. We were fortunate to get the last apartment at a beautiful complex overlooking the city (whew! we much prefer having things planned out vs. last second shuffles!). It’s a college town with several Scottish buildings, beautiful views, and the world’s steepest street! Here are a few pics:

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Green Pastures & Lambs
On our drives across New Zealand we saw lots of the green pastures and sheep that are signatures of the country. Since it is spring here, we also got to see lots of new lambs. My grandfather and aunt always had sheep which I loved to hold as a child. Seeing lambs running around the fields brought back lots of wonderful memories!

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Nugget Point
We finished off our shuffled plans with a visit to Nugget Point. This point is on the Catlins Coast and is near the southern tip of New Zealand. The real treat of stopping here was that we saw the rare migrating albatross birds. There are only 25K of the Shy Albatross in the the world and are considered “Near Threatened” status. We happened to be at Nugget Point during their migration so we saw lots of them. These albatross weigh about 9 lbs and have up to an 8 foot wing span so they are huge. It was a great unexpected surprise!

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Milford Sound & Fiordlands
From Nugget Point we headed to Milford Sound in Fiordlands National Park. Milford Sound is one of the best known destinations in New Zealand, and we happened to hit a fantastic weather day! It rains 2 out of every 3 days and is known as one of the wettest places in the world.

The week before we arrived there had been terrible weather – and the road to Milford Sound was actually shut down due to over 20 avalanches. In fact about 15 tourists were stuck at the sound for 5 days (see link for some interesting aerial photos)
http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/9154681/Milford-cut-off-by-massive-slip

We were fortunate that road had reopened and the weather was sunny and warm for early Spring. We expected about 40-45 degrees with rain. The trip and the views were fantastic!

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This is where Kiwis jump in the lake before the Michigan game
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One of the 20 avalanches a week before our visit. Wow!!
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And another…
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We even got to see seals and the 2nd rarest penguin… although they were tricky to capture in pictures!

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We also stayed in a great B&B near the park entrance. It’s often hard to find places that are nice near parks, but this B&B was great! Here is the view from our room:

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We finished off our day by driving to Queenstown and eating at a gourmet burger shop. Ryan had a huge lamb burger!

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We’re now off to explore more of New Zealand!

Stop 38: Sydney Part II

We’re back to Sydney for a busy 1.5 days. We know…we are crazy to fly this much!

The Bridge Climb!!

Climbing the Sydney Harbor Bridge was one of the things Emily really wanted to do in Sydney. We wanted to go on the climb at sunset which can book up so we reserved over 2 months in advance. The only bad thing is that the climb isn’t exactly cheap – and the climb occurs rain or shine…

We really hoped the weather would be good, and it turned out to be wonderful! There were sunny blue skies and 75 degrees.

For those not familiar the climb involves hiking the outer structure of the bridge to the top to see amazing views of the city, the harbor, islands, and the ocean.

It’s actually an easy climb as long as you don’t mind heights. You have a safety tether that moves along with you as you walk up a series of ramps, ladders, and steps. Apparently the Sydney government smartly required strict controls on anything falling off the bridge so you are given all sorts of gear to fully secure all items. You’re not permitted to take anything other than your sunglasses – and they are fully strapped on. You’re given a radio headset, handkerchief, rain/fleece gear… everything you could imagine! Everyone also has to wear the same gray suit, apparently required so that climbers don’t distract drivers below since the gray suit blends in with the bridge color. You will see the suits aren’t too stylish!

You can (for a fee of course!) buy a CD with 8 shots of your climb so a few pictures are below.

Our guide was absolutely fantastic, and the views were incredible! This one can be checked off the bucket list now! πŸ™‚

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The Sydney Opera House Again – South Pacific Musical
We think we might be the first people who have speed walked from the Sydney Bridge Climb straight over to the Sydney Opera House in 15 min to catch a show!

The timing worked, and we were able to see the South Pacific Musical. The first time I saw this musical was in 1st or 2nd grade when my Dad conducted the high school pit orchestra for this show!

We were excited we had a chance to go to the Opera House twice as we actually saw it in a different part of the opera house. We’re almost regulars now!

Dining
We had two last fun dining experiences in Sydney. One was a raspberry passion fruit tart at a great cafe recommended by Kristen S that was amazing (thanks so much Kristen!) as well as a nice lunch at an area called The Rocks. The Rocks is a really neat part of Sydney as it’s the original settlement so you can see lots of historical houses and a historical church. We ate on the pier by this area and had a great view.

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The only other observation we have on dining in Australia in general has been the time it takes! We generally try to keep meals moving, and we’ve had lunches last 2 hours on weekdays! We were shocked that lots of working people went out for lunch and seemed perfectly content that it took that long.

Now off to New Zealand!

Stop 37: Western Australia & Perth

Greetings from Western Australia!

When planning this trip we debated a lot on what areas to visit as we had more places we wanted to see than time available! Ryan had read that Perth was rated as one of the top places to live in the world. Our final tipping point for trekking to Perth is that we realized it was wildflower season in Western Australia. I love flowers so I was really excited!

Western Australia isn’t visited nearly as frequently as the east coast because it’s quite a long trek across the country. In fact, we talked to a couple of friends/classmates from Australia who said lots of people in Australia (including them!) had never been to the west coast. You can’t really drive across the country due to a lack of roads (no interstates here!), and it’s like flying from Ohio to California!

After having explored Western Australia, we are SO glad we bought an extra plane ticket to go here! We had an amazing time! Here are our top 7 reasons:

1. Averages 8 hours of sunshine a day… some say the most of anywhere in the world
2. Strongest economic growth in Australia (thanks to an explosion of the mining industry)
3. Wildflowers in the Spring – amazing!
4. Wild Australia – we ran across wild kangaroos, went miles without seeing cars… wow!
5. The seafood is awesome!
6. Gorgeous beaches
7. It takes approximately 1 minute to walk from the Perth Airport arrival area to the car rental. When you return the car, it takes about 1 minute to walk to the departure gate. πŸ™‚

Here are a few highlights from our visit:

The Pinnacles

When you’re at The Pinnacles, it looks eery and makes you think you’re on another planet! In the middle of a desert landscape are wild rock spires surrounded by yellow sand dunes. The rocks stretch for a 10 km loop and then disappear as suddenly as they appear. Apparently the rocks are made mostly of shell and date back to when the area was beneath the sea. The really crazy part for us was that this park wasn’t discovered until the 1960s. How is this possible?! Wow!

We had a particularly wild weather day at the Pinnacles. Although rain isn’t typical in this desert, the main road into the park was closed due to flash flooding! Thankfully most of the park could still be walked so we set out hiking. In the course of 1.5 hours, we had 2 downpours, 60 mph windgusts, and 2 periods of sunshine. It was nuts! We have to give a shout out to our awesome umbrellas (soon to be mentioned in our Tips & Tricks!)! Every other person’s umbrella was flipped inside out while ours withstood the wind. The only issue was that the handle of mine actually bent in the wind and had to bent back. Crazy!

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The only small issue we had was making it into another national park we planned to drive through. The park entry was down a red clay road that turned into complete mud. Our little rental Hyundai seemed to be swallowed in mud so we had to turn back. This made for an interesting time cleaning up the car before returning it to the car rental… which may have involved a rather interesting paper towel and squeegee clean at the local BP station by the airport!

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Indian Ocean

To reach The Pinnacles you drive along Indian Ocean Drive. This is similar to Pacific Highway 1 and offers fantastic deep blue water views and cliff overlooks. We also saw crazy dunes of white sand located hundreds of meters from the beach and across the road. I guess the winds must be a little strong here!

We stayed right on the Indian Ocean and had a great view! This was our first time putting our hand in the Indian Ocean.

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Beautiful Wildflowers
Western Australia is known to have some of the most spectacular wildflowers in the world – and we think it’s true! We managed to put almost 1100 km on our rental car while driving several hours north of Perth.

Western Australia has over 1800 varieties of wildflowers, 60% of which are native to Australia. We spent a full day stopping to hike and driving down highways filled with flowers. We didn’t see any other cars for miles and miles so it was easy to pull of the road to look at the flowers and take pictures. We kept finding new varieties even after several hours of driving! Here are some of the different varieties:

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The area is also know for having flowers that literally carpet fields and red rock areas. Here are a few pictures of the fields of flowers (can you tell I like flowers?):

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Even sheep and cows got to graze in fields with flowers!

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Kangaroos!
I wasn’t sure if we would actually see kangaroos, but we definitely did! Our final count was 11! When driving down a small dirt road to look at flowers early in the morning, we actually came across 4 female kangaroos and their joeys. Thankfully we didn’t hit them (we saw several more that were roadkill!), and I scrambled for the camera to get a couple of shots. They are fast!

We also found that the kangaroos aren’t very exciting to local Western Australian farmers. They can be quite a nuisance!

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Cottlesbeach, Perth
Once back in Perth, we took the opportunity to see Cottlesbeach, the most famous beach in Perth. This beach is know for its sunsets as you can see!

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King’s Park, Perth
King’s Park is the nicest city park I have ever seen. It is set on a bluff overlooking Perth and hosts a wildflower festival every spring. We timed out our visit to be there during the festival and loved it!

Everlasting flowers are a signature of Western Australia

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As are Kangaroo Paws! I loved them!

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There were so many great flowers to see!
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We found a cafe in the park that had awesome mango smoothies and snapper with a great view over the city.

Dining in Perth
We got to try even more fish in Perth. At one point I realized I had had different types of snapper for 4 meals in a row! We also had an amazing dessert – a warm rhubarb almond tart with passion fruit ice cream on top and a light dusting of chocolate cookie crumbs beside it. It was such a yummy combination!

We are now returning to Sydney to finish off a few activities before heading to New Zealand!

Stop 36: Sydney

G’Day from Sydney, Australia!

This is the first of two stops in Sydney for us. Why two stops? We wanted to go to too many places in Australia/New Zealand πŸ™‚ Our OneWorld ticket only covers 4 Oceania stops so we have had to use Sydney for our base for another stop in Australia (Perth). For now, here’s our first of two posts on Sydney.

We have had a fabulous time in Sydney! Here are a few highlights from our time here:

Sydney Opera House – The Proms
We were excited when planning the trip that our timing worked to see The Proms concert at Sydney Opera House. The Proms is the same concert series we saw back in July in London.

Given Australia’s link to the British Monarchy, Sydney often hosts a finale concert at the same time as London. The finale concert is extremely popular, and the concert consists of British patriotic music (think US 4th of July Boston Pops concert).

We were surprised to see the level of excitement for the concert! Concertgoers dressed up in British colors and several wore British flag dresses and shirts. In fact, we sat in front of the Queen. πŸ˜‰ Also, people brought in their own streamers and confetti to throw during the concert!

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The entire second half of the concert became a singalong to British songs. I was quite surprised to learn there are words to Pomp and Circumstance, and everyone knows the words! Rule Britannia was also sung several times – I have heard the song before, but didn’t know the words:

“Rule Britannia! Britannia, rule the waves! Britons never, never, never shall be slaves!”

We have to say this was the most enthusiastic and ruckus concert we’ve seen in an opera hall! It was a blast!

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Taronga Zoo
While we often don’t head to zoos on vacation, we heard that Taronga Zoo is really nice and had a huge exhibit of Australian animals. Locals may not be as interested in the local Australian animals, but we certainly were! We actually skipped over most of the typical zoo animals and spent all of our time in the Australian area.

We couldn’t believe how close you could get to the animals! There were areas where you could go directly into an area with kangaroos, emu, and wallaby – with no gates between you and the animals! The kangaroos here were very calm, but we have read that kangaroos in the wild have been known to attack if they are surprised or scared. The emus were crazy – they paced constantly around the area!

There were koalas – and one was actually awake and moving around so we got some pictures.

We also got to see Tasmanian Devils, which are rapidly dying due to the spread of oral cancerous tumors. We also saw crocodiles (yikes – the ones here can be 10 feet long!), black swans, local penguins, and lots of colorful birds.

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The zoo has a really nice design and reminded us of the San Diego Zoo. You take a ferry across from Sydney and then catch a gondola that runs above the zoo to the entrance. The zoo then runs downhill so you have beautiful views over the Sydney Harbor as well as an easy walk down the hill for your visit!

Bondi Beach
Bondi Beach is one of Sydney’s most popular beaches. Since it’s early spring in Sydney, we weren’t expecting the beach to be very busy. We were surprised to see lots of surfers out in the water! We enjoyed a great lunch at a historic beach club and restaurant called Icebergs that opened when the beach first became popular in 1929.

The views and the food (more seafood!) were both fantastic! We finished off our time with a few kilometers of a popular coastal walk that had a series of rock cliffs and more beaches. It reminded us of La Jolla, California. I also believe that this is the inspiration behind Apple’s Bondi Blue iMacs of the late 1990’s πŸ™‚

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Food!
We’ve continued to enjoy the food in Australia! We have both been eating lots of seafood and have had several types we’ve never had before such as King Fish and Rock Fish.

We have also loved all of the passionfruit desserts. We’ve had a passionfruit banana cupcake as well as an awesome dessert called passionfruit Pavlova. It’s apparently a local favorite and consists of a meringue crust with cream that’s covered in passionfruit puree. It was delicious!

After our quick stop in Sydney we are heading to Perth in Western Australia to see the wild flowers and one of the fastest growing parts of Australia.

Stop 35: The Outback: Uluru & The Olgas

G’Day Mate!

Our next stop in Australia allowed us to utilize the beauty of the Round the World airline ticket. The ticket is fixed price and allows you to fly anywhere that a OneWorld code share flight is available. As a result you can fly into out of the way, small airports that are expensive to reach for no extra cost. This worked out really well as we wanted to go from Cairns (Great Barrier Reef area) to see Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park in the Outback

Getting to the Uluru can be difficult as the most economical city to fly into is located about 5 hours away and involves a long desert drive that is only recommended for daylight hours due to lots of wildlife you can hit on the way! With our Round the World ticket, we were able to fly directly into Ayers Rock, a tiny airport with only 2 gates located about 10 minutes from Uluru. This saved us tons of time and driving!

So what is Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park?

In case you aren’t familiar, Uluru is a huge monolith in the middle of the Outback. The surrounding area is completely flat for hundreds of miles so it’s particularly spectacular to see this huge monolith in the middle of the dessert. It looks like it was just dropped into the landscape! The color of the monolith is also quite intriguing, particularly at sunrise and sunset, because the rock is red and seems to glow as the sun rises and sets.

PB&J

There were no extravagant meals here! There is only one small town area (and by small, I mean really, really small) so the food options are quite limited and not known to be very good. So…. our first stop was at the local IGA grocery store to pick up food for the next 4 meals. We enjoyed classics like PB&J, apples, and granola bars. πŸ™‚

Kata Tjunta

Kata Tjunta, also known as “The Olgas,” is the sister monolith of Uluru. While it is lesser known, we had read that it is often more preferred than Uluru (and we now agree!).

It was unusually hot when we visited so we were worried the trail might shut down as it closes at 97 degrees. Thankfully it was *only* 95 degrees so we just made it past the cutoff! Our favorite hike was the Valley of the Winds, which is an 8 km hike that takes you up through the rocks of the Olgas and provides some great views.

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We were also surprised and happy to see that there were wildflowers still blooming! It is early spring in Australia so we were treated with beautiful yellow, red, white, and purple flowers throughout the hike. It was great!!


Flies, Flies, and More Flies

The less exciting part about visiting Uluru-Kata Tjuta is that it is notorious for having horrible flies. This isn’t exactly advertised on the tourism website ;), but Ryan discovered it while reading forums about visiting. Thankfully, we read there is a perfect solution – Fly nets that you could buy at IGA! Although these nets look terrible, they were a complete lifesaver. The flies go straight for your eyes and ears so it was quite unpleasant without them. With the nets it was great!

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In fact, we paused only a couple of times while hiking to take off our nets for pictures. Once we had the nets off, we took the pictures as fast as we possibly could to get the nets back on ASAP!

Sunset at The Olgas

The Olgas are known for being particularly striking at sunset so we staked out a spot and enjoyed a magnificent view!

PS from Ryan: While waiting for sunset, lots of tourists were standing on this post and jumping off to take pictures. Emily joined in this fun… and this picture makes me laugh πŸ™‚

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Here are a few pictures of the rock leading up to sunset

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And then here is the rock at sunset – notice the change in color!

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Monopoly Pricing 101

The hotels for Uluru-Kata Tjuta were the most maddening of the trip. Our hotel night had the dubious honors of being one of the worst rooms and most expensive rooms all in one!

It’s interesting – one resort company owns all of the properties at the park. It seems that development has been limited and the nearest towns of any real size are hours away so this one company has a complete monopoly on pricing. This results in options that range from Really Poor –> Poor –> Fair –> Average, with average being almost $1000 PER NIGHT!! In fact, the Ritz Carlton in Japan was significantly cheaper than our night in Uluru-Kata Tjuta. 😦

We sprung for the dorm style option that had its own bathroom. Unfortunately these only came in 4 bunk bed rooms… so we could have invited in several friends! Ryan wasn’t too thrilled when he realized that he was too long for the bed but the good news is that the room was decently clean (my priority). They even had a can fly/mosquito killer there for you! Not exactly a value… but hey… limited options gives maximum pricing power!

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Uluru

We kicked off our morning bright and early to see sunrise at Uluru. Here are a few shots:

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We spent the rest of the morning hiking around the base of the rock and looking at wildflowers. It is not recommended to hike to the top of Uluru for several reasons – It’s an aboriginal sacred ground, you have to hold a chain all the way up the steep face, and the rock becomes dangerous with wind or rain. Today access was fully blocked due to high winds. We were quite content with our base walk!

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After a great morning exporing Uluru, we headed back to the Ayers Rock airport. We were limited to 200 km before a per km surcharge kicked in on the rental car (seemed to be the norm for every car rental here!). We were proud of our utilization… 196 km driven!

We’re now on the way to Sydney!

Stop 34: Cairns/Great Barrier Reef

Greetings from the Land Down Under!

After leaving Hong Kong, we took a direct flight to Cairns, Australia, which is home to the Great Barrier Reef. We were very surprised that you could fly to Cairns from Hong Kong, but it worked out very well for us!

The “Wrong” Side of the Road
After landing in Cairns, we picked up our rental car and hit the road. Since Australians drive on the left side of the road, it was an interesting and comical experience! On the plane I had been mentally walking myself through driving on the left, which way to look when turning, etc. When we got to the lot and started the car, I felt prepared and ready to go. The one thing I had not anticipated was that the knobs for the blinker and the windshield wiper controls would be inverted! We must have looked like complete morons pulling up to stop signs with our windshield wipers going! Just when you thought you had it and got comfortable…. instincts kicked in and suddenly your windshield was getting cleaned again! πŸ˜‰

The one other fun experience was driving in round-abouts. After having spent 5 weeks in Europe driving, we have become “pros” at roundabouts. However… going through roundabouts backwards was an entirely new experience!

Great Barrier Reef

We heard that a town called Port Douglas (thanks Kristen S!), located about 1 hour north of Cairns, was a bit less touristy and had great reefs nearby so we stayed there. This was great advice!

To get out to the Great Barrier Reef, we took a 2 hour boat trip. While there are sections of the reef closer to the shore, the reef near the shore isn’t nearly as pretty as the outer reefs due to environmental damage over the years.

To see the reef firsthand we spent the day snorkeling in 3 locations on the reef. It was amazing! While the water was a bit cool (it’s the equivalent of early March here), we had wetsuits. While we didn’t look too stylish, we were quite thankful for the warm suit!

We were able to float just a few inches above the reef and got to see incredible fish and the beautiful reef! We even got to see the “Finding Nemo” fish! We had an underwater camera with us so we were able to get lots of pictures. Based on lots of positive reviews, we went with the Sony TX30 camera and found that it works great! Here are a few of the pictures we took:

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On our way back to port, a humpback whale and her baby were spotted. It’s whale migration season here in Australia so it was a nice surprise to see whales!


Daintree Rainforest

Just north of Port Douglas lies the Daintree Rainforest. At a point called Cape Tribulation this rainforest actually comes all the way to the ocean and touches the Great Barrier Reef.

While we saw a small bit of rainforest while in Brazil, we really haven’t been in a full rainforest so it was neat to see. We saw lots of neat plants and animals, including a huge lizard (see pic below!), and a tree only found in the Daintree.

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Port Douglas

We enjoyed the town of Port Douglas a lot! On our first day we stopped at a local farmer’s market. They had fantastic fruit juices – I had fresh pineapples crushed and Ryan enjoyed fresh mango juice. We also picked up some locally grown oranges as well as macadamia nuts. I absolutely love mangoes, pineapple, and macadamia nuts so this was awesome for me!

These foods also crossed over into several dishes that we had. I had barramundi fish (so fresh and good!) for dinner every day I was here, and I loved the mango, pineapple, and tomato salsas that were used. Ryan has enjoyed the huge tiger prawns frequently served here as well as the kangaroo fillet he ate!

We also found mango sorbet, passion fruit sorbet, and macadamia nut ice cream. Wow!

Cairns

We finished off our time in the Queensland area with dinner in Cairns on the pier – barrimundi fish again!

Other Random Observations from Australia vs. Other Countries

One really interesting thing that we have noticed while quickly traveling around the world is that each culture is very unique and different (this sounds obvious, but is very apparent when you experience this first hand!). It’s been very apparent what different cultures emphasize and where different people put their focus. In particular, we’ve noticed very big differences in trends such as hotel quality, service, cleanliness focus, attention to time/detail, credit card usage, carry on luggage, airport security, and internet availability.

– Across every country the locals we have met have been so friendly to us. In particular, people have been especially nice when we’ve had one to one conversations with them. This has been so nice!

– Lots of things are sold a la carte in Australia (quite different than Europe prix fixe menus!). Here are a few examples:
> Bread isn’t usually included in meals (it’s $8-10 so I’m much less tempted by carbs :))
> Internet is often not free (charged often by min or 15 min increments!)
> Using your credit card almost always results in paying a 1.5% – 3% transaction fee (I haven’t used cash this much in years!)

– Airport regulations are interesting. By now, we’re fairly seasoned travelers. The most interesting for us has been that our flight from Hong Kong to Australia rechecked our bags at the plane and threw away all water that was bought inside airport security gates. While you can’t bring bottles of water through the normal airport security checkpoint, this is the only place in the world where we’ve seen drinks purchased inside security taken away. Our conclusion was that Australia security must be quite high… but we were surprised again. On two flights no one ever asked to see an ID (not at the check-in gate, not at security, not when boarding the plane…) Hmmm….. strange….plus it was September 11th one of the days!

We’ve also noticed carry-on luggage differences. In the US, Asia, & Europe you can generally carry on 10-15 kg plus a personal item. In Australia and New Zealand you only get 7 kg for both items!!! Yikes! Our red bags definitely had to be checked which is generally free (as long as you don’t fly Jet Star).

– We have loved the outdoor activities and scenery in Australia – definitely amazing and some of the best we’ve seen!

– The food is expensive in Australia (bread at dinner is $8-$10, salads and dessert are often about $20 each) but better than expected. The fish, salads, and fresh fruit have been fantastic! Macadamia nuts are also one of my favorites so it’s been great!

We’re now headed to Ayers Rock in the Outback! Bye for now!

Stop 33: Hong Kong

4 flights down, 18 to go! We didn’t really fly much on the first half of the trip, but we’ll be flying a lot now!

After landing in Hong Kong, we made our way to the hotel. The airport is located on its own island so there is a train that takes you to one of the two main islands followed by a bus that takes you to the doorstep of the major hotels. It was very efficient actually!

We spent just over 2 days in Hong Kong and had several interesting experiences. Here are a few highlights:

Hong Kong History: Neither of us knew a lot about Hong Kong’s history so we kicked off our visit with a stop the island’s history museum. For those not also not familiar with Hong Kong, the areas has two main islands – Kowloon and Hong Kong. Hong Kong Island was owned by the British for about 150 years while Kowloon Island was leased for 99 years by Britain from China.

This lease arrangement expired in 1997, and negotiations between Britain and China ultimately led to China taking back its leased property (Kowloon) as well as the island Britain owned (Hong Kong). Crazy! This whole arrangement caught our interest so we’ve been reading more about the history as well as the future plan for Hong Kong.

Although we haven’t been to Hong Kong before, we definitely noticed a loss of the glam (particularly on the Kowloon side) versus we’ve heard about in Hong Kong. This article might suggest why… it looks like Hong Kong may not stay in the spotlight long term.

https://www.google.com/search?q=china+hong+kong+shanghai&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari#hl=en&q=china+hong+kong+shanghai&tbm=nws




Peak Tower & Hiking: There are mountains that rise up behind the city portion of Hong Kong Island so there is a funicular tram that carries passengers to the top. The tram is quite steep but offers great views of the city below. We also hiked around the side of the island to get more views from above. We capped off the night with dinner overlooking the city. It was very nice!! The only sad part was that the view isn’t as pretty as it used to be…massive smog is overtaking Hong Kong (courtesy of Hong Kong’s own pollution combined with Guangzhou pollution blowing on the city).

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Harbor & Hotel Room: The hotel moved us to a room with a full view of the harbor which was great! Here are a few snapshots of the view.

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Shangri La Lunch: Ryan had been anxiously anticipating this lunch after reading about it a few months ago… he thinks it’s one of the nicest and largest buffets he has every seen! They had chef prepared noodle bowls, sushi, and dim sum which he loved. I, on the other hand, was spotted mostly at the table with an array of fruit and the dessert area πŸ™‚ This was literally about all we ate that day!

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Afternoon Tea: Given the British influence on the islands, afternoon teas were once popular. The original Peninsula Hotel has a tea each day so we finished off our time in Hong Kong with biscuits, tea sandwiches, and small pastries (and coffee for me since I don’t like tea! :)). It was also quite interesting to be in this hotel as was the headquarters of the Japanese Army based in Hong Kong in WWII.

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– Michelin Not the Same in Asia: For the foodies out there, we agree with several articles indicating that there is not consistency in restaurant reviews between Europe and Asia. After visiting both countries and trying out restaurants, we agree with the below article indicating the standards don’t seem to be the same. We definitely agree… Europe standards are much stricter.

http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2013/01/28/is-the-michelin-guide-relevant-in-asia/

Ryan had dim sum for lunch from Tim Ho Wan, which is known for its Michelin 1 Star rating. We also had dinner at a restaurant on the Michelin list. Having just been in France, we really think neither of these restaurants would have made the list in France. While both were good, they were more of mall fast food joints.

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– Luxury Stores in Mall The IFC mall was literally packed with stores of every major designer and brand you could imagine. We’ve never seen such a major collection of stores in a mall that might be stand-alone in other markets.

– Garrett’s Popcorn: Speaking of the mall… look what we found! Why is there a Garrett’s Popcorn in Hong Kong?!

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– Go Kellogg!!! A little purple pride here… look at the billboard we saw all over the airport!

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We are now on to Australia after a great set of stops in Asia!

Stop 32: Beijing

Hello!

Now that we’re back online, we can give you an update on our latest travels.

We kicked off our time in China in Beijing. Thanks to my awesome co-worker Kevin K (thank you, thank you Kevin! :)) we had a driver for our time in Beijing who was wonderful! The driver was waiting at the airport to pick us up and was with us throughout our time in Beijing. It worked out wonderfully since we speak absolutely no Chinese, and it allowed us to be dropped off at the entrance area of tourist areas and picked up at the exit which saved us tons of time. We also enjoyed the hospitality and kindness of the driver who was great!

After being picked up at the airport, we headed straight for the Great Wall. This was the place we wanted to visit the most in Beijing so we were very fortunate that there was sun and low smog when we were there! We visited an area of the wall at Mutianyu, a slightly less touristy section recommended by several friends and co-workers.

Although I knew it was steep, I was still surprised at how steep the stairs and path seemed in person. The steps felt like a ladder!

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We weren’t planning this picture but a lady who spoke almost no English insisted on taking it this way πŸ™‚ It was way easier to just pose!
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We guess an upgrade to 5 As has occurred vs the original monument!

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For our second day in the city, we had a private tour guide arranged by our driver who was fantastic! She had traveled to the US and several other countries as a guide, and her English and knowledge of the sites were both fantastic.

Our visit included the major UNESCO World Heritage sites from Ming and Qing Dynasties, including the Temple of Heaven (temples visited by the emperors), the Forbidden City (primarily living palace of the emperors), and Summer Palace (summer residence of the emperor which was burned by the British & French then rebuilt). We also had a chance to see Tiananmen Square. It was fascinating to be seeing these areas firsthand after seeing them in media and textbooks for years.

Locals exercising
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We finished off our sightseeing in Beijing with a visit to Olympic Park and saw the Bird’s Nest Aquatic Building where Michael Phelps won so many gold medals. It was interesting to see that the building, like many Olympic structures, isn’t being used much these days (proving out the research that one Kellogg GIM Team did questioning the long-term economic payout of hosting the Olympics!)

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You’ll notice that it rained our second day in Beijing… but it was actually nice as it reduced the smog. Although it was sunny on our first day in Beijing, we could barely see the sun once we came out of the mountains because of the intense smog.

Here are few things we learned in China:

-Our 4g phone was always limited to 1g when using data…
-Pricing was interesting… Some things were inexpensive (a private tour guide was very affordable here, we had the cheapest taxi ride of any international city
– Beijing’s Population > Entire State of Ohio’s Population
-We saw nearly every Asian and Western model of car out on the roads, and many cars were very nice. The interesting thing is that in between brand new cars, we saw bikes and bikes that were modified with engines and trailers.

Overall, we saw a lot and learned a ton from our time here! Now onto Hong Kong!

The hotel sent its greetings as we departed πŸ™‚ Note: The Room Key thanked us!

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Stop 31: Tokyo

We finished off our time in Japan in Tokyo. Tokyo is absolutely enormous and has huge contrasts of historical sites with complete sensory overload modern sites. Thanks to Jessica And Eric C for all the great ideas (including the Tokyo hotel) πŸ™‚


Shibuya Crossing

Our first taste of modern Tokyo was to visit the shopping area Takeshita-dori, Omotesando, and Shibuya Crossing. The best way I can describe Shibuya Crossing is to think Times Square on steroids. It’s crazy!

At the advice of Emily’s co-worker Jeff H (thanks Jeff!), we grabbed coffee from the multi story Starbucks overlooking the crossing to see the action (yes, Starbucks all over the place here too).

This street crossing is so crazy because there is a sea of cars moving through with literally hundreds of people waiting to cross. You wonder how on earth this will ever work… And then the crosswalk turns green. Literally traffic stops from all directions and a sea of people cross in every direction – diagonals, swerving… You name it!

Meanwhile, there are billboards blinking and blaring music and sounds everywhere. It seems like complete chaos… Until the crosswalk starts flashing green and everyone instantly moves to the sidewalks. Within seconds traffic is flying through the intersection again. Crazy!!

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Posing as the Japanese seem to pose in pictures
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Japan Baseball
Our next taste of modern Japan was going to a Yomiuri Giants baseball game in the Tokyo Dome. I’ve always wanted to go to a Japanese baseball game since reading about how animated it is. Wow, the game was a sell out and it was quite an experience in so many ways!

First, several of the logos are copies of the US MLB logos (look familiar San Fran friends?!)

Both teams have a dedicated cheering section that literally cheer constant chants the ENTIRE (every pitch literally) game! One team even had a drum player and a trumpet player whose lips must have felt like they were going to fall off from constant playing!

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I haven’t been able to get to a PC in awhile, so I don’t have my videos uploaded yet. Here are some links I found on YouTube that represent the craziness of the cheering!
http://youtu.be/64v9t6_2s-0



http://youtu.be/q6TkT3sjsA8

Although many people we ran into said they didn’t speak English, all of the songs played on the stadium were English, the words balls/strikes/outs were used, and many T-shirts and ads had English. Interesting!!

There were beer vendors everywhere, and every single one was a young female. They have fluorescent colored clothes with flowers behind their ears and seemed to always smile! They carried around a beer backpack with a dispensing tube in the side. Contrast this to your beer vendor at Wrigleyville or the Reds’ stadium!

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This was my first time ever having a bento box as “ballpark food”

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Luxury Stores and a Love of France

We knew there would be lots of high-end stores, and we certainly saw about every designer. Interestingly, there are these stores not only on the Rodeo Drive street but also throughout many other streets we walked.

We were also surprised to see how many French foods there are here. There are French bakeries, creperies, chocolates, macaroons (our favorite from France – Laudree – is right by our hotel!)… You name it! We know both Japan and France are world-renown for food so Japan must embrace French things!

This was especially evident in the many department stores in Tokyo. One store, Isetan, had a huge amount of French foods that you could buy. The care taken with each item was amazing. Our caramels were packaged to withstand a storm while our pastries were given individual ice packs to keep the items cool!

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They even had Amish Food…I thought about talking to the store owner about this, but thought that a lot might get lost in translation!!
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Electronic & Camera Stores

Ever since I was a little kid I have wanted to go to Japanese electronic stores. These stores are often bigger than the Macy’s in New York City and only sell electronics!! Well, my dream came true as I got to go to Yodobashi Camera! This place is floor after floor of fun things including any appliance you could dream. I even bought an extra memory card as they had a wall with every memory card size, speed, and company you could imagine. I was able to get the exact company of card I normally buy.

I think that my Dad and Mr. S should make it a point to visit these stores πŸ™‚

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Note from Emily: For you Mike D πŸ™‚
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See…I am not the only person who wears Casio watches!
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Traditional Palaces, Shrines and Gardens

In between these modern experiences, we had fun visiting palaces, gardens, and tea houses.

We particularly enjoyed seeing the Imperial Palace where the Emperor lives and the gardens. Here are a few pictures:

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We also really enjoyed Yasukuni Shrine where we happened to be visiting when samurais were practicing. A gentleman told us this group was one of the best and strongest in the country so it was quite interesting to see! We also enjoyed visiting a Japanese military museum. It was helpful to see how several military actions arose and fascinating to learn more background on WWI and WWII.

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Next up is Beijing!

Stop 30: Hiroshima & Osaka

Greetings!

After 2 days in Kyoto, we once again took a bullet train to go to Hiroshima and Osaka. My love of the bullet trains continues to grow! Not only are they always exactly on time, they always pull up precisely to a numbered gate by a corresponding numbered car. Once you are on the train, you are given a wet wipe to clean your hands.

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In fact, we have found so many examples of a focus on cleanliness here. Before every meal, you are presented a towel or wipe to clean your hands, and even the cabs have been super clean! The cab we took to the train station had white seat covers, had freshly vacuumed floor mats, and the driver wore white gloves while driving. I now have a new level of cleanliness upon which to aspire. πŸ™‚ After the bullet train arrived at Hiroshima, we tossed our bags into lockers (they allow that here!) and headed for the Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Museum.

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In case you get lost, there is a full map of the bathroom!
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This was an incredibly moving museum. We have now been to three of the most major World War II sites in the world in less than 6 weeks – Normandy, Berlin, and Hiroshima. It has been so thought provoking to hear the different perspectives from three separate vantage points – Allies, Germany, and Japan.

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A watch that stopped at the moment of the atomic bomb detonation
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The Atomic Bomb Dome – preserved as one of the few buildings that survived at the center of the explosion
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The incredible part about the Hiroshima Museum is that the City of Hiroshima has dedicated itself to peace and preventing future nuclear attacks anywhere in the world. In fact, every time that a nuclear test occurs anywhere in the world, the mayor of Hiroshima writes a peace letter trying to persuade the area to abolish the use of nuclear weapons. It was especially interesting to look at all of this as my Grandfather fought in the US Navy in the Pacific Theater.

We then headed back to the train station to catch the Shinkansen to Osaka. As we grabbed our bags, we were serenaded by a floor cleansing machine which played a cute version of “Whistle While You Work.” In fact, we’ve noticed all of the tones here on machines, trains, and subways always play a pleasant little tune for you.

Our last fun observation at the train station was the use of the MLB Cincinnati Reds logo on the local Japan Major League Baseball Team called The Carps. Ha!

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Thanks to a great corporate rate, we got to stay very affordably at a Ritz Carlton in Osaka. :). For dinner, we went to a steakhouse to enjoy Kobe beef. It’s quite expensive in the US but was much less expensive here. The restaurant was quite fun as they brought us raw steak and we cooked on a grill ourselves at our table! We finished off with mango desserts back at the hotel. πŸ™‚

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My final fun fact has been the toilets! At both hotels, here have been the features:
– Heated seat
– Deodorizing fans built into the toilet
– Automatic open/close of the lid when you enter/exit
– Bidet with massaging water, temperature control, and jet direction controls – if you like that kind of thing…
– Dryer
– and… One even had flush sounds with volume controls for privacy

What can I say but wow! Maybe I will have to order one for our house!

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We are now off for Tokyo!

On to Asia! Stop 29: Kyoto, Japan

Hello from Kyoto, Japan!

We have had a wonderful time in Japan so far, and our great experience started with the flight. Despite being in Economy Class, we had a multiple course meal that actually tasted good, a constant flow of drinks and snacks, and lots of nice little extras such as toothbrushes in the bathroom after an overnight flight. I wish I could fly in Asia vs. the US! We also appreciated that they didn’t turn off the heat for the entire flight. Ryan put on his coat like he normally does and had to take it off as the plane was actually warm. πŸ™‚

We have adapted to the time change well and hit the ground running. We purchased a JR Rail Pass in advance which allows you to ride on nearly all of the high speed train lines. We had mapped out our route in advance (it involved several exchanges coming from the airport) which was helpful – plus Japan’s subway and railways are almost all in English and are very intuitive. For instance, there are digital maps inside the subway cars that visually show the direction you’re headed, where you are on the map, and how many minutes it is to the next stop. This is incredibly helpful when you don’t know the language!

We took a Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto and arrived in just a couple of hours. The trains go up to 200 mph so they feel like they are going very fast! The trains are great, and we so wish there would have been a bullet train between Cincinnati and Chicago as we could have been to Chicago in just over 2 hours!

We also quickly noticed the precision of the train – every train arrived exactly on time and left the station within 2 minutes of arriving. Ryan timed out the arrival with his GPS :), and they even seem to try to arrive at 30 seconds into the arrival minute. After some research, Ryan learned that the error goal is +/- 36 seconds the exact arrival time…. And some years it has been as low as 18 seconds on average. Ryan is in awe.

After arriving in Kyoto, we checked into our hotel and were ushered in for tea, coffee, and cookies. We quickly learned that this would happen every time we came back to the hotel. πŸ™‚

We kicked off our sightseeing in Kyoto with a visit to Kiyomizu Temple (Kiyomizudera).

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Our next visit was actually to a barber shop. After 5 weeks of traveling, Ryan couldn’t hold out any longer so we had a fun experience there! ;). Thankfully, I remembered the millimeters I cut Ryan’s hair (he is cheap) so I was able to explain what we wanted with a picture, labels, and our iPhone translator app. The Kyoto haircut was the most precise haircut he has ever had! The barber must have gone through Ryan’s hair at least 10 times trimming each area precisely.

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We finished off our first day in Kyoto with a walking tour through the Gion District and dinner at a local Japanese restaurant. The Gion district is an area where some women can become what are called maikos and geishas. You have probably seen pictures of these women with white faces, hair up, clogs, and beautiful dresses. The history of this tradition is hard to understand (and still is a bit!), but the tour was quite helpful and interesting. We finished off with Japanese food where we sat at the counter in the kitchen where Ryan had tempora and sushi.

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Our next day in Kyoto was wonderful! There is an awesome student organization called Good Samaritan Club that is comprised of 80 students from local universities. For over 50 years students have guided foreign tourists through major Kyoto sites to show visitors the city. The students volunteer to be hosts free of charge – with the sole intent of showing Kyoto to you and providing you with a wonderful experience. How amazing!

We had absolutely awesome guides (we even had 2 since one of our guides was in training). In fact, one of our guides actually led a Kellogg GIM (Global Initiatives in Management) tour last March (for those of you not familiar, GIM is a course we took at Kellogg last fall in which we went to Brazil and Argentina). Thank you so incredibly much Yuka and Motonobu for a wonderful day! http://www.geocities.jp/goodsamaritanclub_hp/index.html

Yuma and Motonobu took us to some of Kyoto’s most beautiful sites:

– Ryoanji Temple which has a fascinating Zen rock garden
– Kinkakuji which is known as the Temple of the Golden Pavilion and is made of real gold
– Arashiyama which is a district of Kyoto with a beautiful, natural setting if gardens, mountains, and a bamboo forest (the bamboo was so neat!)

The sites were fascinating to see, and getting to learn about the local culture from Yuma and Motonobu made the day incredible! They also took us to two great places to eat. We had rice and noodles for lunch and then had shaved ice and ice cream sundaes that were delicious. Ours had fresh mango (I love mango, and Japan grows mangoes so they were so fresh they melted in your mouth!)

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After our tour we did laundry which proved to be quite an adventure. πŸ™‚ The machine ate our only set of the correct denomination of coins (perhaps because we had no clue what buttons to hit since they were all in Japanese!). We were about out of Japanese Yen so we headed off to an ATM to get cash and discovered most ATMs in Japan don’t taken Debit cards issued outside of Japan. Apparently only those ATMs in post offices, 7-Eleven stores, and huge train stations like Tokyo take international debit cards. Since it was after business hours, we had a scavenger hunt for a 7-Eleven. πŸ™‚ Now armed with cash, we were able to get our clothes in the washer. All went well until one of the washers wouldn’t unlock when the cycle ended! Thanks to the kindness of a local man and some prying, our clothes finally came out. We are so grateful for the locals here who are so friendly and helpful!!

We finished off our time in Kyoto with dinner in the Pontocho-dori, one of Kyoto’s most scenic dining areas. It is a narrow alley which runs beside a river and has pretty, traditional lanterns that glow at night. We ate a restaurant that combines French and Japanese food in a Japanese style. The food was amazing, and we had a wonderful experience visiting with our server, Miyu. She had been an exchange student in the US and is studying English at a local university now. We had so much fun learning about Miyu’s time as an exchange student (she even played percussion in her marching band) and learning more about Japan and Kyoto. Thanks Miyu for such a fun visit!

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Is bminusc.com now sponsoring cabs in Kyoto?!
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One of best memories of Kyoto will be the people. The service was incredible, and everyone was so friendly, kind, and helpful to us. We learned so much not only about the sites but also the culture. Thank you for a wonderful time in Kyoto!

Stop 28: Paris – Part Deux

Bonjour again from Paris!

We designed our route around Europe to be a loop originating in Paris. This allowed us to get a leased car in France (see Tips & Tricks for more details on this). It also allowed us to fly out of Paris for our next trip leg to Asia which was helpful as Paris has several direct flights to Tokyo as compared to some other European cities we considered.

Since we had only had one day in Paris when we were here 5 weeks ago, we were also looking forward to having a bit more time in this beautiful city!

Before heading back into the city, we stopped at Versailles and enjoyed looking through the palace. It is absolutely huge! It also gave us a chance to try to recall our knowledge of French history from our primary education days!

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After leaving Versailles it was time to part with our car. We drove it 9600 km which is almost 6000 miles! We have absolutely loved having the freedom of a car in Europe so it was sad to give it up! The car gave us the chance to visit out of the way towns, mountains, beaches, etc without tons of train and bus connections (and lots of expensive train reservations since it is holiday time in Europe). It also gave us complete flexibility on timing which was relaxing for us. We’re also happy to report no scratches or dents in the car despite some of the smallest parking garages and tight driving we’ve seen. Wohoo!

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I am sure the car company is going to be excited about scraping off all of our emission stickers, interstate driving permits, vignettes, and toll transponder brackets. πŸ˜‰

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Our first night back in Paris, we were reminded it was the end of holiday season in France (typical to have multiple weeks off in August). While we normally have restaurant reservations, we didn’t make one our first night back since we weren’t sure on timing due to returning our car. We had a list of 3 creperies to try, and all 3 were closed! Many, many local restaurants close up completely for 2-3 weeks and simply leave a sign on the window that they are closed. That’s quite different than the US!

Our first full day back in Paris was a rainy one, but we were fortunate to be spending most of the day in museums. I found a great museum pass that worked out very well. It allowed us to enter the museums multiple times and go through a reserved admission line that avoided long, long lines. We saved so much time versus waiting in line! We were in every museum in < 5 minutes!

We spent much of our time in the Orsay museum visiting the Impressionist floor, which is one of the largest Impressionist collections in the world. It lays out of the evolution of the movement from the beginning by showing early paintings all the way through the movement so it was very interesting!

We also had a couple of really fun meals. For lunch we met up with a friend from Kellogg who works in Paris and had a wonderful time!! She took us to a great restaurant, and we had a wonderful time visiting! πŸ™‚ Thank you, Annabelle, for a wonderful lunch and taking time from your vacation to connect!

For dinner, we headed to the casual cafe from the chef of the Michelin starred restaurant we ate the last time we were in Paris. We enjoyed our first dinner so much from this chef that we were excited to go back. For those in Chicago, we would equate this chef to Rick Bayless of Paris. πŸ™‚ This casual cafe offers great french food in an informal setting at very reasonable prices but doesn't take reservations so you have to arrive early. Thankfully, we just made the first seating of the night which avoided a long, long wait!

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We finished off our time in the city with several Paris classics – the Louvre, Musee de l’Orangerie, Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysses, and the Eiffel Tower.

The Louvre is the largest art museum in the world and has an average of 10,000 people visiting at all times. One of my co-workers (thanks Kevin C!!) recommended a tour since the museum can be overwhelming on your own. We were definitely glad for this recommendation and had a great time being guided through the museum! Emily also loved Musee de l’Orangerie because it has the painting Water Lillies by Monet in it. Sorry, no pictures were allowed in the room so you'll just get to see Louvre photos.

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For my aunt, a piano teacher πŸ™‚
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When we first started researching the Louvre, we were very surprised to see that there have been big pick pocket issues even within the museum. In fact, the museum had to be shut down for a few hours recently due to so many issues. We noticed that there were signs all throughout the museums alerting tourists of the issue. While we were in Paris, we actually saw this article on the front page of CNN – http://edition.cnn.com/2013/08/07/travel/chinese-tourists-paris-pickpockets

The good news is that you can just look for the guy in red to know who the pick pockets are! πŸ˜‰
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Anyway, our first stop was the Mona Lisa. One would think taking this picture would be a calm, reflective moment….

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Well…..20130830-190808.jpg

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Maybe not!

Emily wanted to get in a long run before leaving Paris so I charted out a course down the Champs Elysses, past the Arc de Triomphe, and under the Eiffel Tower. She thought it was beautiful and so much more exciting than the hotel treadmill!! (PS from Emily: George P – Add this run to your recommended run list! :)). I stayed back and worked on this crazy blog post πŸ™‚ Between this 8 mile run and all of our walking, we realized that Emily had run/walked 16 miles!

We enjoyed meeting my co-worker Marie-Odile one last time before leaving Europe (wow – totally awesome she came downtown again!). We capped off the night with a trip up the Eiffel Tower at sunset. Luckily, we had reservations to skip to the front of the line to get to the 2nd floor. Once on the 2nd floor we quickly found the ticket booth to see if tickets to the top were still available – and they were! Seeing Paris from the very top was beautiful!

After 5 weeks in Europe, we're now off for Japan!